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Fruit + Electronics = Piano

The human body is electrically conductive. A piece of fruit will also conduct electricity, as will basically anything else that’s organic. We can leverage this fact to create a fun little afternoon project: a digital fruit piano. No soldering is necessary, and the whole thing takes less than an hour, even for a total beginner like my 9-year-old daughter. What sound does a banana make? Let’s fine out.

While humans and fruit do conduct electricity, they’re pretty bad at it. Both typically have an electrical resistance that’s in the 1-megaohm range, depending on how moist your skin or nectarine is. This design uses your body and the fruit as part of the circuit, flowing current through the human-fruit “wire”, but the high resistance means that the currents involved are tiny. The piano player isn’t going to feel a shock, or even feel anything at all. She’ll just lightly touch different bits of fruit to play a song, almost as if by magic.

This isn’t my original design. The idea of controlling a digital device by using the human body as part of the circuit has been around for quite a while, and the Makey Makey has popularized it with a nice little kit. If you like this type of project, definitely check out the Makey Makey! But if you’re lazy and cheap like me, you can build a similar device yourself with only an Arduino and some hookup wire, a few resistors, an audio speaker, and a selection of bananas, pears, and peaches.

How does it Work?

The basic concept is simple. Each piano key is a voltage divider circuit involving two resistors: one 1-megaohm resistor and one piece of fruit. Touching the fruit will change the resistance in the circuit, resulting in a change to the voltage at the junction between the two resistors. The Arduino can measure this changing voltage with an analog input, and use it to control an audio speaker.

To complete the circuit, one hand should be connected to the Arduino’s ground pin, while the other touches the fruit. Current will flow through one hand, up the arm, across the chest, down the other arm, and back to Arduino GND. For convenience’s sake I connected GND to a metal ruler, but a plain jumper wire also works fine. For the fruit connection, just stab a wire straight into the fruit. Soldering a banana works poorly…

banana piano

If the hand isn’t touching the fruit, then the whole fruit-hand-body section becomes an open circuit with infinite resistance. In this case, the circuit simplifies to just +5V connected through a 1 meg resistor to the analog input. Because the analog input draws virtually zero current by itself, there will be no current flowing in the circuit and no voltage drop across the 1 meg resistor (remember Ohm’s law V = iR, so when i = 0 then V = 0). The voltage measured at the analog input will still be +5V, and Arduino’s analogRead(A0) function will return 1023, the maximum possible value for its 10-bit resolution.

When the hand touches the fruit, the fruit-hand-body section forms an organic resistor of about 1 megaohm. Current will flow from +5V through the real 1 megaohm resistor, then through the fruit-hand-body 1 megaohm resistor and down to ground. The total resistance between +5V and GND is 2 megaohms, and with two equal value resistors, the voltage at the point midway between them will be half the total voltage drop. That means the Arduino’s analog input will see 2.5V, and the analogRead(A0) function will return a value around 512.

To make a piano, a simple Arduino program is needed to continuously poll each analog input, and play a tone if the analog value is below an appropriate threshold. I used a threshold of 800, but you’ll need to experiment to find the value that works best for you. The sample program uses tone frequencies corresponding to the notes CDEFGA of a C major scale, making it easy to bang out favorites like Mary Has a Little Lamb, Hot Cross Buns, and I Ate the G Key.

Each of the six fruits is connected to one of the six Arduino analog inputs A0 to A5. If you’re wiring this up at home, duplicate the pictured banana circuit six times, connecting the first to A0, the second to A1, and so on up to A5. Then connect your speaker’s black wire to GND and red wire to Arduino pin 8. Happy fruit playing!

void setup() {

void loop() {
  if (analogRead(A0) < 800)
    tone(8, 523, 130);
  else if (analogRead(A1) < 800)
    tone(8, 587, 130);
  else if (analogRead(A2) < 800)
    tone(8, 659, 130);
  else if (analogRead(A3) < 800)
    tone(8, 699, 130);
  else if (analogRead(A4) < 800)
    tone(8, 784, 130);
  else if (analogRead(A5) < 800)
    tone(8, 880, 130);
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Battery-Powered Apple IIc, Part 2


This funny-looking device is a DC barrel plug to Apple IIc DIN-7 adapter, inspired by last week’s musings on constructing a battery-powered IIc. The adapter makes it possible to power an Apple IIc with a standard DC supply between 9V and 20V, or a suitable battery pack with a DC plug. The supply or battery should be capable of delivering at least 20 watts, or about 1.67 amps at 12V.

For my experiments, I used a Belkin BU3DC001-12V, which is essentially a fancy 12V 7.2Ah battery with built-in charging circuitry, output regulation circuitry, and fuse. It’s intended to be a backup battery for VOIP systems, but can easily be repurposed for any 12V DC application. Best of all, it’s only about $20 used, which is hardly more than the cost of the battery itself.

The current draw estimates from my earlier post proved to be about right. When running from the 12V battery, the IIc pulls about 1.5 amps for a few seconds while the floppy drive spins. Once the drive stops, the current drops down to about 700 mA. Given the 7.2 amp-hour capacity of the Belkin unit, that ought to be enough for several hours of battery-operated IIc fun.

Building your own DC to IIc adapter is simple, and only requires some wire and a few dollars in parts.

Female DC Jack to Screw Terminal Connector – $1.99
DIN 7 Pin Plug Set – $6.21


If you’re wondering why there’s no funny video here of a IIc running in the woods, it’s because I’ve only solved half the problem. A battery-powered IIc is pretty useless without a battery-powered monitor to use with it. Fortunately, 12V DC powered LCDs with a composite video input aren’t difficult to find. Many portable DVD players and car entertainment systems can do that job. To power it, I could build another custom cable to run the monitor and the Apple IIc off the Belkin battery, but I’m going to be lazy and simply buy this splitter:

12V Splitter Cable – $6.59

It remains to be seen how much current the monitor will draw from the battery, but hopefully not much. I’ll report again when I have solid numbers.

While I already have a portable DVD player that will work here, its 5 inch diagonal is a little bit underwhelming. I also have a much nicer 14 inch LCD monitor that runs from 12V DC, but it only has a VGA input and no composite input. I’ll keep my eyes peeled for an LCD that’s 9 inches or larger, running from 12V DC, with a composite video input, to create the ultimate battery-powered Apple IIc system. Then I can… um… OK, I admit there’s no real point to this project. 🙂

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Battery-Powered Apple IIc?


I’ve got the crazy idea in my head to run an Apple IIc system completely from battery power, so I could take it on the road. I know it’s possible – there’s already one person selling a pre-made kit. That’s a nice solution, but the pictured setup involves an automotive jump-start battery that costs around $150. Would something simpler be possible?

The Belkin Residential Gateway Battery Backup pictured above is designed to keep your VOIP phone or similar device working during a power outage, but it’s found a second life as a popular portable 12V supply for electronics projects. Inside the Belkin unit is a 12V/7.2Ah lead-acid battery. It charges from a standard AC wall outlet, and has a DC barrel plug for connection to the powered device. Hack that off and attach a 12V car cigarette lighter receptacle, or other connector of your choice, and you’ve got a nice little portable power source.

Is 7.2Ah enough to do anything interesting? To answer that question, we need to know how much power an Apple IIc requires. My Apple original AC adapter says it outputs 15V @ 1.2 amps. The IIc can accept any DC voltage between 9V and 20V, so the Belkin’s 12V should be fine here. 15V @ 1.2 amps is 18 watts, and to get the same power at 12V we would need 1.5 amps. That tells us the maximum power the AC adapter can deliver, based on what’s printed on its case.

What about the average power? That’s much more relevant, if we’re trying to estimate the possible run time while connected to a battery. I used a Kill-a-Watt to measure the AC adapter’s power draw from a wall outlet, and it was 12 watts while the IIc was idle doing nothing. So the adapter draws 12 watts from the wall, and delivers something less than 12 watts to the IIc, depending on its efficiency. I don’t know if it’s a switching regulator, or how efficient it is, but I’ll be generous and assume it’s 75% efficient and delivers 9 watts to the IIc. If my reasoning is correct, that means a IIc at idle would draw 0.75 amps from a 12V battery (9 watts).

Back to the Belkin unit: its 7.2Ah battery should theoretically be good for 9.6 hours of runtime, assuming the average power draw of the IIc is close to the idle draw of 0.75 amps. 9.6 hours seems a bit hard to believe, but I’ll go with it for the moment.

Now what about a monitor to use with the computer? Fortunately I’ve got an old portable DVD player with a composite video input that I know works with the IIc. And the DVD player runs off 12V! I haven’t measured its power draw, but I don’t think it can be more than the IIc itself. I’ll assume it’s equal to the IIc’s draw, so the total battery runtime of a IIc with DVD player / monitor would theoretically be 4.8 hours.

If the Apple IIc used any type of standard DC power connector, I’d give this a try right now. Instead, I need to go digging for a female DIN-7 plug. Why must every vintage Apple system include some kind of obscure connector? 🙂

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Dirty PCBs Review


Today’s electronics hobbyists are blessed with many options for custom PCB manufacturing, like Seeed, Elecrow, and OSH Park. For around $1 to $2 per board, depending on size and quantity, these vendors will turn your EAGLE or KiCad or other Gerber files into shiny new PCBs. I’ve used all three in the past, but my go-to vendor for most things is Seeed.

Dirty PCBs is a newer entry in this space, but it’s affiliated with Dangerous Prototypes, who are long-time members of the hobbyist electronics community. A few years ago Ian Lesnet moved himself and the company to Shenzhen, China, and Dirty PCBs is sort of a matchmaking service between Shenzhen PCB manufacturers and hackers around the world. For a recent PCB purchase of 20 boards, I decided to give them a try.

Saving Pennies

The main attraction of Dirty PCBs is the price. Even among other cut-rate PCB manufacturers, it stands out as the cut-ratest. Any color PCB is available for the same cost, whereas most manufacturers charge extra for colors other than green. Slow-boat shipping is free worldwide, and the faster shipping options tend to be cheaper than at the competition. For my order of 20 red PCBs, 10×10 cm size, shipped by DHL China, here’s how Dirty PCBs compared to Seeed:

10×10 cm PCB @ qty 20 = $57.43
Red soldermask = $10.00
DHL shipping to USA = $24.71
TOTAL = $92.14

Dirty PCBs
10×10 cm PCB @ qty 20 = $50.00
Red soldermask = $0.00
DHL shipping to USA = $15.00
TOTAL = $65.00

Dirty PCBs also uses a constant price per board as you increase the quantity, or offers a small discount for larger quantities, as you would typically expect. Seeed has the bizarre habit of offering a negative “discount” for higher quantities. E.g. with Seeed it’s sometimes cheaper to buy 10 boards twice than to buy 20 boards.


My biggest gripe with Dirty PCBs is the website itself and the way it’s marketed. The site’s tagline says “No bull, just crappy PCBs.” I suspect I’m in the minority, but I just don’t appreciate the joke here. Call it basic, no-frills, or rock-bottom if you like, but please don’t tell me I’m paying money for something that’s intentionally crappy. Especially when, if you read the specs and the terms, it’s not crappy at all. Yet I’m somehow left with a mental picture of a sloppy, careless, and all-around half-assed manufacturing process. I don’t think it’s accurate, but that’s the image it paints in my mind.

To be fair this attitude is intentional, and can be traced to the “accidental” launch of the Dirty PCBs service. As Ian tells it, he never meant to launch a PCB service, but simply hacked together some scripts for the convenience of his friends. That unofficial “for friends” service became unexpectedly popular, and Dirty PCBs was born. Ian’s said in the past that the service doesn’t really make any profit, so his tolerance for whiners and time-wasters is low. To quote the About page:

Why are you so flippant?

This site was intended for friends and not the public. We’ll process your boards, but we only make about 30 cents per order. We really don’t care if you want to take your business somewhere else, and it’s not worth our time to deal with stupid questions or asshats. Paypal fee reversals, annoying emails and the like will get you banned from the site.

Fair enough, and +1 for use of the word “flippant”. The actual ordering process was simple, except for a mistake I made when uploading the Gerber files. The upload button doesn’t mention what file format it expected (I later found this information on the About page), so I uploaded a zip archive of the same Gerbers I would normally send to Seeed. It appeared to work, and I went through the entire checkout and payment process, only to be informed after I’d paid that no board outline file was found. This was because my Gerbers had different filename extensions than Dirty PCBs was expecting. After renaming the files and uploading a new zip archive, all was well.


My order was placed on Thursday afternoon, and the finished PCBs were in my mailbox on the following Wednesday afternoon. Six days! That is crazy fast. Maybe I just got lucky and hit the manufacturing cycle at the perfect time, but that’s more than twice as fast as any other PCB order I’ve ever made in China or the USA.

Inside the box was an unexpected surprise – 23 PCBs instead of 20. I know the Dirty PCB’s proto-pack is “about 10” and often 11 or 12, but I didn’t realize they did a similar thing for larger orders. Presumably they make 10% extra in case some PCBs fail the e-test, then mail you all the boards that passed testing. So hey, three extra free boards. Thanks!

Inspecting the Boards

20160601_184012 copy

Now for the key question: were the boards any good? From my inspection, I’d say mostly yes. I spent a long time examining the boards under 10x magnification, and comparing them to my original EAGLE files, and to the Gerbers using gerbv. Probably I’ve never examined any PCB quite so intensely, and some of the issues mentioned below may be typical of other discount PCB manufacturers too. For the money paid, I’m not complaining, but for completeness I’ve catalogued the good and the not-so-good.

The Good

First and foremost, my sample PCB worked great once I populated the components and put everything together. This is about the only thing that really matters in the big view, and it means there were no accidental shorts or breaks in the PCB traces. Of course I hadn’t really expected any problems there, since Dirty PCBs advertises a minimum 5 mil trace/space size, but I only went down to 8 mil and was nowhere near the limit.

My board is a rather funky hexagon shape, or a triangle with clipped corners if you prefer. There were no problems routing this non-standard board outline.

When examined under magnification, all the drill holes appeared nicely centered in the vias and pads. The edges of traces and planes appeared clean and crisp. Silkscreen was sharp and nicely legible. The soldermask was a nice bright red color, and tented vias were actually tented.

The Not-So-Good

One small gripe: the silkscreen layer was slightly offset from the copper layers and drill holes, as you can see in the photo below. The silkscreen outline for this AVR ISP footprint isn’t centered around the pads. This doesn’t matter much, but it may bother you if you’re a stickler for little details.

20160601_190239 copy

One bigger gripe, that I’m still not sure is my fault or Dirty PCBs’ fault: some of the extra-large vias appear either larger than intended, or not in the right place – it’s hard to be sure which. Here’s an example of a large untented via that connects ground planes on the top and bottom of the board. In the photo, notice how the edge of the drill hole is almost exactly in line with the edge of the ground plane (which is partly obscured by the silkscreen line)? And the plating around the drill hole actually extends beyond the ground plane, bowing outwards slightly into the gap between the ground plane and the neighboring trace? And the stop area (the area without soldermask) extends nearly all the way to that neighboring trace?

20160601_183823 copy

Here’s the same region viewed in EAGLE, with the silkscreen hidden. Notice that the drill hole comes well short of the ground plane’s edge, the plating around the hole doesn’t extend beyond the edge, and the stop area only extends maybe one-third of the way into the gap between the ground plane and the neighboring trace.


And here’s the same region once more, looking at the actual Gerber files with gerbv. The top copper layer is magenta, drill holes are lavender, and the stop mask is gray. Maybe the Easter Bunny chose this color scheme. Where layers overlap you’ll see additive coloring. There’s no separate color for the plating around the hole here, since both the plating and the ground plane are just part of the top copper layer. It almost looks like Dirty PCBs interpreted the stop mask layer (gerber.GTS) as an additional top copper layer, than generated its own stop mask around that.

Another possibility jumps to mind as I type this: I used a non-standard drill size for those extra-large vias of 0.02362205 inches – not sure how that happened. I wonder if DirtyPCBs rounded up to the next larger drill size, then automatically enlarged the copper area and stop mask to compensate. The through-hole pads in these pictures use a 0.040 inch drill, so the ratio of the hole sizes should be 0.02362205 / 0.040 = about 0.59. But measuring the actual hole size ratio observed in the PCB photo, it’s about 0.62. So those via holes are about 4.7% larger than they were intended to be, if my figuring is correct.


Here’s another example of the same issue. This via bulges outward slightly from the top-left of the ground plane, and the stop area extends all the way to the neighboring trace. But in the source file, the via’s drill hole and plated area are both completely within the boundaries of the ground plane, and the stop area only extends about a quarter of the way to the neighboring trace.

20160601_183441 copy

Overall Rating

As an overall rating, I’m giving Dirty PCBs a thumbs-up. They were cheap, super fast, sent me extra boards, and the boards worked. I’m not sure I’d trust them yet with a design that goes all the way to the 5 mil limit, but it’s probably best to avoid that limit anyway. I wish they’d change the name or at least the tagline, but that’s just me. I expect I’ll use Dirty PCBs again, and will report how it goes. Thanks for reading!

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Discovery Day!


Every year I lead a group of kids in the construction of an “Electric Scribbling Machine”, as part of the local elementary school’s Discovery Day program. The program sessions are run by parents and local community members, and can be anything from karate to marshmallow cannons to frog dissection. The kids range in age from 7 to 10 years, and the sessions are only 50 minutes long, so it’s a challenge to design interesting projects to fit the available time and skill level of the kids. Despite the challenges, we always manage to have lots of fun!

The scribbling machine concept is simple:

  1. Attach an off-center weight to an electric motor, so it wobbles and vibrates
  2. Attach the motor to some kind of body
  3. Attach colored markers to the body as “legs”
  4. Set the machine on a large sheet of paper, and watch it go!

I use cheap DC hobby motors rated for 1.5V to 6.0V, with an AA battery. The off-center weight is a glue stick (designed for a hot glue gun), with a small pre-cut hole that press-fits onto the motor shaft. The body is an empty plastic water bottle, and the legs are washable Crayola markers. What could go wrong?

If you guessed there would be tons of problems, you’re right. In past years, we used rubber bands to hold the battery and legs to the body, and the motor wires to the battery. Kids and rubber bands don’t mix well in this project – most of them lack the physical dexterity needed to twist a rubber band around two objects and hold them in place. They struggle with it, accidentally crush the water bottle, and get frustrated. Rubber bands on the battery for the motor wires are also a problem. You can imagine how unreliable that connection can be, and there’s no easy on/off switch.

A New Design for 2016

This year we made two big changes to the design. I bought a pile of 2xAA battery holders with an integrated on/off switch, for a much simpler and frustration-free electrical connection. And I replaced all the rubber bands with duct tape. Who doesn’t love duct tape? With these changes, we were guaranteed a problem-free Discovery Day, right?

The battery holders were a clear improvement, and I was pleased with how they worked out. The duct tape was a mixed bag. It was certainly easier for the kids, and it allowed the legs to be attached in more orientations than are possible with rubber bands. But if you’re not the parent of an 8-year-old, it may be hard to appreciate just how big of a mess kids can make with tape. There were wads of snarled tape everywhere, and when someone wanted to un-tape a leg and make an adjustment, it was difficult.

20160601_104652 copy

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I could live with snarled tape, but the bigger issue came from an unexpected source: the solder connections. Of 24 battery and motor packs, we had at least 12 that failed in various ways. Sometimes the wire broke off at the motor, and sometimes at the battery pack. This was a surprise, since we used the same motors soldered in the same way as previous years, where I’d only ever experienced one or two breaks before. During the first session, we went through all of the packs for that session and half of the packs intended for the second session. I raced home to get my soldering iron during the short break between sessions, and repaired as many packs as I could. In the end we had enough for everyone, but the fragility of the packs was surprising and frustrating for the kids.

After the scribbling machines were more-or-less finished, it was great to see some of the kids experimenting with different designs. Longer or shorter legs, angled or straight, flat-footed or precariously balanced… each produced a different kind of motion in the resulting machine. Some spun in lazy circles, while others raced straight ahead like a car. All of them made interesting spiral and dot patterns on the paper as they went.

I believe I used the words “magnetic field” at least once during the session, so that counts as educational. Success!

20160601_104604 copy

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AV2HDMI Video Adapter for Apple II


Many retro computers and game systems have a composite video output – the familiar round yellow plug. Unfortunately, composite video inputs are increasingly rare on modern TVs and computer monitors, creating a headache for retro enthusiasts. This is a mini-review of one solution to this problem: a composite video (and stereo audio) to HDMI converter box called AV2HDMI, which I purchased for $18 from

Converting composite video to a more modern format is more difficult than it might first appear. It’s not merely a matter of physically converting one plug shape to another. Composite video is an analog signal that combines the color, luminance, and frame synchronization information all on the same wire. It comes in different formats like NTSC, PAL, and SECAM, which imply a different number of horizontal lines per frame and frames per second. The signal is also interlaced, meaning that the even lines are sent in one frame and the odd lines in the next frame.

A converter must detect the input format correctly, separate the color/luminance/sync info, deinterlace the lines, perform analog-to-digital conversion, upscale the resolution, and output a more modern VGA or DVI or HDMI signal. There are plenty of opportunities for things to go wrong and generate a poor quality result. It doesn’t help matters when the original composite video signal doesn’t quite meet the NTSC spec in the first place, as is the case for the Apple II series.


The AV2HDMI box that I purchased is one of at least 20 very similar items on Amazon, all with the identical case and connectors, but with different names, colors, and labels. It seems likely that these are all really the same device, with the guts manufactured by a single vendor, and then many other vendors packaging and rebranding it. The case is sealed tight, without any screws or other obvious methods of disassembly, so I couldn’t peek inside to learn more.

Previously I was using the composite video input on a Dell 2001FP LCD monitor, which seems to be known for good handling of composite video. But in an effort to declutter my desk, I really wanted to get my Apple II systems working with the primary Asus monitor that I also use for my PC and Macintosh work. Keeping around the Dell 2001FP just for occasional use was a hassle, so my main motivation in purchasing this converter was convenience rather than top-quality video output. I also wanted something that could work with any Apple II system, as well as old video game systems, rather than a solution that’s specific to any one model of Apple II.

The overall results from the AV2HDMI aren’t quite as good as the 2001FP, but they’re close, so I’m happy. I can’t decide if it’s stretching the 4:3 image to 16:9 or not – it seems maybe half stretched, like something midway between the two aspect ratios. It didn’t bother me. The output has very good contrast and color saturation. It’s also quite sharp, which isn’t necessarily a good thing. The 2001FP produces slightly fuzzier-looking output, which I think is more faithful to the appearance of an old-shool CRT, and helps make certain color-fringing artifacts less objectionable, but the difference is minor.

The AV2HDMI appears to have some kind of auto-configuring behavior, where it adjusts itself to the incoming video signal’s format, black levels, etc. This takes about two seconds, during which the image isn’t visible. Switching video modes on the Apple II (say between text and low-res graphics mode) forces a repeat of the auto-configure logic, so there’s a few seconds of black screen when switching modes. It’s a little bit annoying, but not too bad.


All of these tests but one were performed on an Apple IIgs. Pure text modes looked good in 40 and 80 columns, as did color games. The higher resolution GSOS desktop was acceptable in black and white, but suffered from minor shimmering and sparkle. GSOS in color was pretty bad, but remember this is still composite video, and GSOS never really looked very good on a composite monitor.

In the pure text modes, the computer disables the NTSC colorburst, which makes the monitor think it has a purely black and white video signal. This helps a lot, and results in a nice crisp image with the AV2HDMI. In low-res graphics mixed mode, with four lines of text at the bottom of the screen, the colorburst is enabled and the text looks markedly worse. Substantial amounts of green/purple fringing are visible on the edges of each text character. The 2001FP does a little bit better in this case, but still shows the same kinds of artifacts. I recall seeing those same green/purple artifacts back in the day, so I know they’re real and not due to some problem with the video conversion. I don’t recall them having been quite so dramatic as they appear now, but it’s been a long time.

AV2HDMI Photos

AV2HDMI color game

AV2HDMI color game

AV2HDMI pure text mode (80 column)

AV2HDMI pure text mode (80 column)

AV2HDMI mixed mode text close-up

AV2HDMI mixed mode text close-up

AV2HDMI mixed mode text on Apple IIc

AV2HDMI mixed mode text on Apple IIc

AV2HDMI GSOS desktop, monochrome mode

AV2HDMI GSOS desktop, monochrome mode

AV2HDMI GSOS desktop, color mode

AV2HDMI GSOS desktop, color mode

Dell 2001FP Comparison Photos

2001FP color game

2001FP color game

2001FP mixed mode text close-up

2001FP mixed mode text close-up

2001FP GSOS desktop, monochrome mode

2001FP GSOS desktop, monochrome mode

2001FP GSOS desktop, color mode

2001FP GSOS desktop, color mode

For the money, I think the AV2HDMI is a good solution for semi-frequent use. The Dell 2001FP was slightly better overall, and a real composite CRT would surely have been better still (I don’t have one). There are also machine-specific VGA adapters available for some Apple II systems. But because I don’t boot my Apple II hardware very often, this was exactly what I needed to simplify my set-up.

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